Bristol's Garden Vineyards: Grape-Treading Fruit in City Spaces

Each quarter of an hour or so, an ageing diesel-powered railway carriage pulls into a graffiti-covered station. Close by, a police siren cuts through the almost continuous road noise. Commuters rush by falling apart, ivy-draped fencing panels as storm clouds form.

This is maybe the last place you anticipate to find a well-established grape-growing plot. However James Bayliss-Smith has cultivated four dozen established plants sagging with round mauve berries on a sprawling garden plot situated between a line of historic homes and a local rail line just north of the city downtown.

"I've noticed people hiding heroin or whatever in the shrubbery," says the grower. "But you just get on with it ... and continue caring for your vines."

The cameraman, forty-six, a filmmaker who runs a kombucha drinks business, is not the only local vintner. He has organized a informal group of cultivators who produce wine from several hidden city grape gardens tucked away in private yards and community plots throughout the city. The project is too clandestine to possess an official name yet, but the collective's messaging chat is called Vineyard Dreams.

City Wine Gardens Around the Globe

So far, the grower's plot is the sole location registered in the Urban Vineyards Association's forthcoming world atlas, which features better-known city vineyards such as the eighteen hundred vines on the hillsides of Paris's renowned Montmartre neighbourhood and more than 3,000 grapevines overlooking and within Turin. Based in Italy charitable organization is at the vanguard of a initiative reviving city vineyards in traditional winemaking countries, but has discovered them throughout the world, including cities in Japan, South Asia and Uzbekistan.

"Grape gardens assist urban areas remain more eco-friendly and ecologically varied. They protect open space from development by creating permanent, yielding agricultural units within cities," says the association's president.

Like all wines, those created in urban areas are a product of the soils the vines grow in, the vagaries of the climate and the people who tend the fruit. "Each vintage represents the charm, local spirit, environment and history of a city," notes the spokesperson.

Mystery Eastern European Grapes

Returning to Bristol, Bayliss-Smith is in a race against time to harvest the vines he grew from a cutting left in his garden by a Eastern European household. If the precipitation arrives, then the pigeons may take advantage to feast once more. "This is the mystery Polish variety," he comments, as he removes bruised and rotten grapes from the glistering clusters. "The variety remains uncertain what variety they are, but they are certainly hardy. In contrast to noble varieties – Burgundy grapes, Chardonnay and other famous French grapes – you need not spray them with chemicals ... this could be a special variety that was developed by the Soviets."

Group Activities Across Bristol

The other members of the collective are also making the most of bright periods between showers of autumn rain. On the terrace overlooking the city's glistening harbour, where historic trading ships once floated with casks of vintage from Europe and the Iberian peninsula, Katy Grant is harvesting her rondo grapes from about fifty plants. "I love the smell of these vines. It is so evocative," she remarks, stopping with a container of fruit slung over her shoulder. "It's the scent of southern France when you roll down the vehicle windows on vacation."

The humanitarian worker, 52, who has devoted more than 20 years working for humanitarian organizations in war-torn regions, inadvertently inherited the vineyard when she moved back to the United Kingdom from East Africa with her family in recent years. She felt an strong responsibility to maintain the vines in the garden of their recently acquired property. "This plot has already survived three different owners," she explains. "I deeply appreciate the concept of environmental care – of passing this on to someone else so they keep cultivating from the soil."

Sloping Vineyards and Traditional Production

Nearby, the remaining cultivators of the collective are hard at work on the precipitous slopes of Avon Gorge. Jo Scofield has established more than one hundred fifty vines perched on ledges in her wild half-acre garden, which descends towards the silty River Avon. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she notes, gesturing towards the interwoven grape garden. "It's astonishing to them they are viewing rows of vines in a urban neighborhood."

Currently, the filmmaker, sixty, is harvesting bunches of deep violet Rondo grapes from rows of vines arranged along the cliff-side with the help of her child, Luca. Scofield, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has worked on Netflix's Great National Parks series and BBC Two's Gardeners' World, was inspired to plant grapes after observing her neighbor's vines. She's discovered that hobbyists can make interesting, pleasurable traditional vintage, which can command prices of more than seven pounds a glass in the growing number of establishments focusing on low-processing wines. "It's just incredibly satisfying that you can truly create good, natural wine," she says. "It is quite on trend, but really it's reviving an old way of producing vintage."

"When I tread the fruit, the various natural microorganisms come off the surfaces and enter the juice," says Scofield, partially submerged in a container of small branches, pips and crimson juice. "That's how vintages were made traditionally, but industrial wineries introduce preservatives to eliminate the natural cultures and then add a lab-grown culture."

Challenging Environments and Inventive Approaches

In the immediate vicinity sprightly retiree Bob Reeve, who inspired his neighbor to establish her vines, has assembled his friends to pick Chardonnay grapes from the 100 plants he has arranged precisely across multiple levels. The former teacher, a Lancashire-born physical education instructor who worked at Bristol University cultivated an interest in viticulture on regular visits to Europe. But it is a challenge to cultivate Chardonnay grapes in the dampness of the valley, with temperature fluctuations moving through from the nearby estuary. "I wanted to produce Burgundian wines in this location, which is a bit bonkers," admits Reeve with amusement. "Chardonnay is slow-maturing and particularly vulnerable to fungal infections."

"I wanted to make European-style vintages in this environment, which is a bit bonkers"

The temperamental Bristol climate is not the sole challenge faced by winegrowers. Reeve has been compelled to install a barrier on

James Scott
James Scott

A passionate software engineer with over a decade of experience in full-stack development and a love for sharing knowledge through writing.